THE LOW-DOWN:
Im writing this for anyone looking for an affordable alternative compared to their OEM, non-Bose, door speakers. There are two reasons why I chose these speakers: clean sound for a clean price and I had a Circuit City gift card that bought one of the sets. The write-up includes information about said speakers, the install process, and how they sound in the car. The over-all process is simple, I did it by myself and I have very minimal experience with electronic installs.
(Installed in a 2000 SE non-BOSE, with Alpine CDA-9851 head-unit)
SPEAKER INFORMATION:
TYPE: Pioneer TS-G1641R
SIZE: 6-1/2
PWR: 2-way 160W max
Link ->
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...219678,00.htmlINSTALLING:
After I finished installing I realized I should have taken pictures to accompany this, but I am slow with my thinking. I apologize.
NOTE: THIS IS HOW I DID THE INSTALL. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO WRONG.
TOOLS USED:
Philips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Drill w/ small bit and a larger bit
Wire stripper
Magic marker
Electrical tape
(Patience and a helping hand are a plus)
STEP ONE: Remove Door Panels
Using the SEARCH feature on the ORG, which is worth the $20 (HINT HINT), I found a link to instructions on Paradox Systems website.
CLICK HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS (PDF) -
http://www.paradox-systems.com/Products/LED.pdfSTEP TWO: Remove OEM speakers (This applies to all four door speakers)
Remove the 3 screws with a Philips screw driver.
Cut wire connector. (I cut right where OEM adapter ended, allowing me enough room for error if I screwed up stripping the wire.)
STEP THREE: Installing the Pioneer speakers.
Now if you put the Pioneer speaker up to the current hole in the door, you will realize that the OEM speakers are larger. There are two possible solutions: drill new holes or fashion up a new bracket. I chose the first option.
Hold up the new speaker to the hole, use a magic marker and dot where the new screws will go into on the door.
After that, using a drill with a small bit begin a starter hole on each of the dots.
To route the wires from the back of the speakers to the front where the OEM wires are, I used a slightly bigger drill bit and made a hole.
When you are ready to mount the speaker, attach the wires to the connectors on the back of the speakers. Take the wires from the speaker and put them behind the door and out through the newly drilled hole.
Align the bracket on the speaker to your starter holes.
Using a Philips screwdriver or drill, screw-in the screw on the top. Then repeat the same process for the 3 other holes.
Next you have to wire everything together.
Strip both the OEM wires about an ½ inch or so, more or less depends on how you feel.
Next depending what connector you used for the speaker, take that wire and remove the end to it.
Splice the new wires to your factory wires. (I twisted them and then wrapped them with electrical tape. I am sure if you can solder them)
Tape off the wire connections.
Assuming I wrote these instructions clear enough, you should be able to turn on your radio and the speaker will be working.
Now repeat the steps above to each of the doors.
Test the speakers while the door panels are off.
Put back on your door panels, reversing the direction above.
Congrats! If they work you did your job right.
MY THOUGHTS ON THE QUALITY:
The speakers have a nice crisp sound, even when the volume is turned up fairly high (20-21 on my head-unit). One thing I noticed is the bass is not as deep, but thats what subwoofers are for. Overall, the speakers are worth the $100 for all 4 ($50 per set), especially if you have blown OEM speakers. I believe Circuit City and Best Buy still carry these so you can go into your local store and listen to them before hand, so you can gauge your own opinion.
Thank you for taking the time to read this. If you have any questions, comments, flame remarks Im open to hear them all. You can reply here or PM me.
--brian